Livin' the kosher dream
Category Archives: Chicken
February 13, 2012Posted by on
Howdy! Yowzers it’s been a while. Well I’m not gonna lie here, a lot has been going on here at The Kosher Gastronome HQ, where to start.
Well first of all – my wife and I were blessed with our own li’l bundle of poop!
Her name is Daniella Noa Fogel, and isn’t she amazing? How are you going to say no to such a rhetorical question like that??
So needless to say, we’ve been pretty busy; it’s not easy training a 2 week old to cook, but she’s getting the hang of it.
Also – I found out that I got into the Maryland residency for next year (the AEGD in the University of MD), which is where I was hoping to get into, so lots of good news all around, praise the lawd!!
All right, let’s get down to business. The last we left off, we were discussing chicken stock, and I had mentioned that if you use pieces of chicken to make stock (in addition to the bones) that you can make chicken crepes with the meat scraps…well guess what? This here post is about that! I know, how fortuitous right?
So these chicken crepes are on my top 10 list of favorite foods. Not even a question. Bold statement right there, but it’s true. I don’t even know if this is a widely acceptable form of crepe filler, but chicken crepes have been a Yom Tov staple in the Fogel household for as long as I can remember, and there has yet to be a Yom Tov that I didn’t go back into the kitchen, when no one was looking, and sneak a third (this was already after I had eaten seconds).
This is usually where I would describe how they taste and what their texture is like right? Well no! I won’t, because I don’t even want you to live vicariously through me, you are just going to have to make these for yourself, and find out just how amazing they really are.
The chicken filling part is really simple. Shred the flesh off of the chicken, and chop it up semi chunky.
Set that aside, and sautee onions, celery, carrots (“Mishpachat Mirepoix”) and some garlic, until softened, and then add in some chicken stock, the chopped chicken, and salt and pepper to taste, and cook for a few minutes.
And that’s it for the filling.
Now onto the crepe part.
I don’t know if you’ve noticed, but I’ve been quoting Michael Ruhlman’s book Ratio a lot lately, and this is no different. I got the crepe “recipe” from his book. His ratio is 1 part egg, 1 part liquid (could be any liquid, but I used stock), 1/2 part flour, and some salt. All of these are by weight by the way.
I can’t remember what the exact measurements were, but I started with 2 eggs, and figured it out from there. So if lets say 1 egg weighs 2 ounces, then you’d use 2 ounces liquid, and 1 ounce flour. Simple enough, right?
A lot of people are afraid of making crepes. It’s one of those things, that just take practice.
To make a good crepe, you want a good pan, that holds it’s heat very well, and doesn’t have high sides which will make it hard to flip the crepe. You also want to use a non-stick pan, and apply the smallest amount of oil you can imagine. What I do is turn the oil bottle upside down with a paper towel on top (like you would with a bottle of rubbing alcohol), and use that oil to wipe a tiny layer on the pan.
The next thing is you want the pan hot, but not too hot, somewhere in the medium range, and you want to pour only enough batter that it just coats the bottom, and that’s it. Also as the batter is coating the bottom, you’re going to want to rotate the pan so the batter fills the areas without batter. This would be a lot easier to explain if you just came by and I showed you. I’m telling you, it’s not that hard once you get the hang of it.
To flip, I usually use my hands. Just slide the crepe to the edge of the pan, and pick it up, and flip it. It really shouldn’t be that hot.
I would take a video of myself doing this, but I have no idea how to edit videos, so I dunno about that.
Ok that was confusing, but the hard part is over.
Now just plop some of that chicken mixture on the crepe, and roll it up like you’re swaddling it (ie like a burrito), and set aside.
When you’re ready, put some oil in a pan, and pan fry the crepes on both sides to crisp it up a little; about 3-4 minutes ish per side over medium heat.
Traditionally in our household, these were always served with mushroom sauce. The way I made the sauce was I made a roux by melting 3 tablespoons margarine, and adding 3 tablespoons flour, and cooking the flour until it smelled nutty, and then added about 3 cups of stock stock, along with whatever seasoning you want (ie like salt, pepper, garlic, or whatever you think), to make a gravy.
While that was thickening up, I sauteed mushrooms, and then added the gravy to the mushrooms and let it cook together.
You don’t want it too thick, it should pour be the consistency of gravy, and then serve crepes with mushroom sauce over top of it.
Just make it, I promise you will not regret it.
Since Pesach is coming (Quick, wanna hear a joke? Why is it called Pesach?? Because you “Pay a sach”!! Get it?…I know Batsheva’s laughing, and that’s all that matters)..so since Pesach is coming, obviously you can, and should, and will make this amazing delicacy, but there’s more to this little crepe story. If you stay tuned, I hope to have time to post on a little something we call “Polochintah” (wow, I totally butchered that one), or “bletlach”…either way, for those that don’t eat “gibrokts” you’ll know what I’m talking about. For those who don’t, well you’re just going to have to wait and find out.
Until then, I’m going to teach Daniella how to make crepes.
- Shredded chicken from stock
- 1 onion, chopped
- 1 carrot, chopped
- 1 celery, chopped
- 1 clove garlic, minced
- Reserved chicken stock
- Salt and Pepper to taste
For the Crepes:
- 1 part eggs
- 1 part liquid – ie stock
- 1/2 part flour
- Pinch of salt
(sorry I just don’t know the exact amounts, but get yourself a scale…you can’t expect me to do all of the work!)
For the mushroom sauce:
- 1 package of mushrooms
- 3 tablespoons margarine, or any oil
- 3 tablespoons flour
- 3 cups stock
- Salt and pepper to taste
- To make the chicken filling: Sautee onion, carrot, celery, and garlic over medium heat, until soft; about 7 minutes. Add about 1/4 – 1/3 cup stock and the shredded chicken, and season with salt and pepper. You really don’t want it soupy at all.
- To make the crepes: combine eggs, stock, flour, and salt.
- Heat a crepe pan over medium-low heat, and brush a tiny amount of oil on the pan.
- Take the pan off the fire, and with the other hand, ladle just enough batter onto the pan to just coat the bottom, twirling the pan to ensure it coats it evenly.
- Let the crepe cook on one side without moving it, for 2-3 minutes, and then flip. I find the easiest way to flip is with my fingers, but you might need to tuck a spatula under the crepe to be able to gain leverage.
- To cook the mushroom sauce: Make a roux, by melting the margarine, and then cooking the flour in it, until the flour starts to smell nutty.
- Add the stock all at once, and stir vigorously, and allow it to thicken up. Season as needed.
- Sautee the mushrooms until softened
- Combine gravy and mushrooms and cook until it is the right consistency of gravy.
- To assemble: Put about 1/4 cup of the chicken mixture into the center of the crepe, and fold up like a burrito.
- To finish off crepe: Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a skillet, and cook each side of the crepe for about 3-4 minutes per side, being careful not to burn it.
- To serve, top crepes with mushroom sauce, and serve warm
January 19, 2012Posted by on
“I’m a child at heart.” Now when most people say that, they mean that they’re care free and fun, or something whimsical like that…When I say it, I’m referring more to the “terrible twos” stage. You know, the annoying, stubborn, “by my self!!” stage. Especially in the kitchen. I don’t really know why, but I hate using cookbooks. It’s so cookie-cutter; so non-independent, and I don’t like that. Of course there are times that I need to follow recipes, but there’s just something about it. When I cook, I like to think I’m being original, and that I’m creating something new, but following someone else’s instructions makes me feel like a goober. There are times when this pays off greatly. Like when I invented the pizzogi (a combo of pierogi and pizza). Or how about that time I decided to bake the baking powder to get a stronger base to make our bagels with? Yeah that was pretty awesome…You see? I am pretty creative…Of course, with the good, comes the bad. Like that time I decided to try and make parve ice cream with fat free half and half (that was a long time ago, but the epic fail still resonates in my ears). And then there was that time I decided to try and make a smoothie out of strawberry, banana, kiwi, coffee, and chocolate. I wish I was making that up. At the time, I thought I was doing society a favor by creating the next drink of the millennium, but apparently I’m an idiot.
But that’s what it’s all about. Cooking is about the failures as much as it is about the successes. (Did you know I was this deep??) Anyway, without boring you anymore, and to just fast forward to where I was going with that whole diatribe, there’s this really good book called Ratio by Michael Ruhlman, which is essentially a tool for cooking anything, well almost anything. For example, instead of giving a recipe for bread, it gives a ratio for bread. All you have to do is combine 5 parts flour with 3 parts water. That’s what bread is. Yeah obviously you need yeast to make it rise, and you’d need salt also to make it taste good, but other than that, that’s all you need to know. (Now happens to be you can mess with that ratio, and change the amount of flour:water ratio to get different types of breads [for example: a ciabatta has a higher water content, than does a rye bread] but that’s for another time.) How does this help? Well lets take you as an example, sometimes you tap that inner pig, and can inhale 5 loaves of bread in one sitting, but other times, you can barely eat a breadcrumb. Well all you have to do is decide how much flour you want to put in, and presto, with this newfangled ratio thingamabob, you can then figure out how much water to put in, and bob’s your uncle.
One of the other ratios in the book is for making chicken stock. You may be saying to yourself, I feel really embarrassed to ask this, but I never knew the difference between chicken stock, soup, and that weird one – consommé. Well I’ll tell you. Any stock, is literally just flavored water. Chicken, beef, vegetable, fish, it’s all the same. You take whatever, add water, and let the flavor molecules infuse into the water. Chicken consomme is taking chicken stock (which remember is just “water which is flavored like chicken”) and adding other vegetables to it to make it into what we commonly refer to as “chicken soup.” (Our modern day “chicken soup” is more of a hybrid)
In the book, there’s a ratio for making chicken stock, which he says is 3 parts water to 2 parts bones. And even though a stock doesn’t need a hard fast ratio like bread does, it still helps to have some sort of guideline (note – guideline, not recipe…yeah I’m that stubborn). Now the way chicken stock is made, you can basically take any part of the chicken you want, cover with water, and cook on a very low flame, for a really long time. The reason for the low flame is when you heat water with chicken inside of it, it’s basically a chemistry experiment. And all of these flavor “molecules” from the chicken are going to wind up in the water. But we don’t want every last molecule ending up in the water, because not every molecule on the chicken tastes good. The bad/harsh flavor molecules will only be coaxed out if the weather is just right, and since it’s one big communal pool, these harsher flavors will be stuck in your stock. So bottom line – gotta keep the temperature low, which means you got to cook it for a long time.
Now, I’m not going to lie and pretend I know everything about this whole process, and which bad flavors will be rearing it’s ugly head, and why it’s any different than if you roast a chicken. Bottom line – for a chicken stock, you gotta cook it low and slow, or else the bunny gets hurt.
And now is the time on Sprockets when we dance make some stock.
Traditionally stock is made out of the bones; most likely because our ancestors liked to get everything they could out of the animals they ate, and this was a way to put the bones to good use. However, there is good reason to use the bones. They’re chock full of flavor, and collagen, which breaks down into gelatin which will give body to the stock. Also, you can either use the bones as is, or if you want a deeper flavor, you can roast the bones first. Which is what I did.
So after your weigh your bones, put them in a roasting dish, sprinkle some salt and pepper over it, and roast away at 450 for about 20-30 minutes, and transfer it to your stock pot
Then measure out your water. So lets say you have 2 pounds of bones, you’ll need 3 pounds of water, and since “a pints a pound the world around” and a pint is 2 cups, you will need 6 cups of water (in layman’s term – 2 cups is equal to 1 pint, and 1 pint is always a pound, and since you need 3 pounds in this case, you’ll need 6 cups…kapish?). You also want to add some other flavors, and you can really add anything, but in my opinion you want to keep it simple. Onion, carrot, and celery (a.k.a. – a “mirepoix”) coarsely chopped go well, as does parsley and dill. And then of course salt, and pepper, and I really like a bay leaf or two for a chicken stock.
Stuff all that in a stock pot, and you really want to make sure it’s all covered with water. If it’s not, it’s ok to add more water until it is covered (another thing you can do is chop the pieces of chicken up to smaller pieces so it fits in the pot easier).
I find that the easiest way to cook the stock is to put your oven on the lowest setting. We’re looking for a temperature around 190, but definitely not over 200. Put the stock pot in there uncovered, and let it cook away for at least 4 hours, 8 is fine, heck I’m sure 12 is fine, just make sure there’s still enough water in there to cover everything.
Then when it’s done, strain everything out, let it cool, and then plop it in the fridge over night, so you can skim off the fat if you want, and you got yourself some nice homemade chicken stock (plus some schmaltz!). I like to freeze my stock in Ziploc bags in the freezer. It freezes faster, won’t take up as much space, and defrosts quicker also.
Yes, I took a picture of a Ziploc bag with chicken stock in it, in case there was some confusion.
Now besides making the best chicken soup you’ve ever tasted with it (just add whatever veggies you normally put in the chicken soup), you also have a tool that can make almost anything taste better. For example, let’s say you’re making risotto, instead of putting in plain ole’ water, you can put in your own stock, it will taste so much better. Or if you’re really feeling crazy, you can even add it to your cholent instead of water, why not?
Another great thing to do is, if you happened to make the stock out of actual chicken (and not just the bones), you can now use the cooked chicken to make one of my absolute favorite dishes, which in our house we call chicken crepes (or “craps,” which apparently is Hungarian for crepes…well at least in the dialect of my Grandmother). I already made a batch of these and they’re ready for a post, now all I need to do is sit down and type one up…It’s hard work being a blogger.
Now as usual, there’s a lot more to be said, and most of you will probably wonder: “why bother?? Why go through all this? Just make plain old chicken soup, by adding chicken, veggies, and spices into the pot like my great grandpaw used to make it! If it was good enough for him, it’s good enough for me.”
Well, to be honest, for me it’s all about understanding what I’m doing and how or why it’s done a “certain” way, and if need be, I’ll question its methods. I am constantly struggling to on the one hand to adhere to tradition, but on the other hand not do things while cooking because “that’s how they’re supposed to be done.” You know what I’m saying? In my opinion, understanding what a stock is, and how it’s different than what we’re “supposed” to do, and what the different uses for it are, makes the cooking experience a deeper one, and it kind of allows my craziness for cooking to be slightly justified, and just a smidgen more meaningful. You can just call me Superman, or Ubermensch if you really want to adhere to tradition.
(Any takers on that last reference??)
All right, enough ranting for now. Go on, make some stock.
adapted from Ratio by Michael Ruhlman
- 2 parts chicken (it can be leftover bones, or whatever, and it can be roasted for a deeper flavor)
- 3 parts water
- Onion, Celery, and Carrots – roughly chopped
- Whole Peppercorns
- 1-2 bay leaves
- If you’re going to roast the chicken, spread in a roasting pan, and pour some oil, salt and pepper over it, and roast at 450 for 20-30 minutes
- Toss your chicken into your stock pot, and cover with the water (adding water until the chicken is fully submerged)
- Add the remaining ingredients, with salt and pepper to taste, and park it in your oven at the lowest setting. You don’t want it to be higher than 200 degrees.
- Cook for at least 4 hours, but overnight is fine also (just make sure there’s enough water in there to keep the chicken submerged)…You can do this on the stovetop, but I find it easier to do in the oven
- Strain, and allow to cool before storing it in the fridge. Also, if you want, the stock freezes very well, and you can store in Ziploc bags in the freezer, so they freeze quickly, and don’t take up that much space
September 21, 2011Posted by on
You know those people that always have to say things like: Oh the movie was great, but the book was so much better? Don’t you hate those people? Well I do too, but sadly I’m one of them. I mean just the other day, I made these seriously awesome sweet and sour chicken, you know the chinese takeout type of sweet and sour chicken? and man they were awesome, and like nothing I’ve ever tasted before…they were so much better than store bought…You see? I said it, look what I’ve become…Help me.
Anyway, what can I say, I said it, and I meant it (right Ambinders?), these little morsels of chickeny sweet goodness are awesome, and worth the time it takes to make it.
Let’s get something out of the way first. These here morsels were fried, and yes the dreaded “deep” type of frying. I understand some of you may have aversions or allergic reactions to fried foods, and I want to assure you, I’ll make sure we’ll have some weight watcher bars for you when you’re over next time for our monthly “fried stuff n’ cheese” party.
Mix together some soy sauce, rice vinegar, and cornstarch. Then Grab a hold of your chicken, and cut them in to bite size pieces, and toss them in to the cornstarch mixture, and let it sit for 30-60 minutes.
Then put a whole bunch of oil in a dutch oven, or any heavy pot, and heat it up to 375 degrees.
A good two to three inches should do the trick.
While it’s heating up, make the batter. The batter is very thick and pasty, but that’s normal. Combine egg whites, canola oil and water, and whisk until it all together. Then combine flour, cornstach, salt, and baking soda together, and then combine the flour and egg white mixture, until it’s uniform and pasty. Add the chicken, and toss to combine.
When the oil is ready, drop in the chicken a few at a time, and cook for 2-3 minutes, moving them around while they cook with a spider or slotted spoon to make sure they don’t clump all together.
When ready, move to a cooling rack, or to a paper towel lined baking sheet. I like to season food when they’re still hot, so sprinkle some salt on them, and finish frying up the rest.
When they’re done, make the sweet and sour sauce. Combine the rice vinegar, brown sugar, ketchup, pineapple juice, cornstarch (dissolved in some water), and soy sauce in a pot, bring to a boil, and simmer it up good.
If you want, the recipe calls for a second fry to re-heat the chicken, and to crisp it up. I really don’t think it’s necessary, but if you want go for it.
Toss the chicken with the sauce, and serve over rice, for that authentic take out feel.
Now there were a few things I deviated from in this recipe. First of all, it calls to sauté peppers and pineapple first, and then combine it with the finished product, I’m not a big fan of sauteed peppers (unless they’re peeled) and I didn’t have pineapple. Second, I didn’t add the pineapple juice to the sauce because I didn’t have any, the sauce tasted fine, but it was a little thick, so if I would have thought about it, I probably should have just added a little water to it, but I didn’t.
Either way, it came out awesome, and yes, they were waaaay better than store bought.
Sweet and Sour Chicken
adapted from TheKitchn
- 1 1/2 pounds chicken breasts cut into 1/2-inch to 1-inch pieces
- 1 each green and red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch pieces (optional)
- 2 cups pineapple chunks (optional)
- Vegetable oil, for frying
For the marinade
- 2 tablespoons soy sauce
- 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
- 1/2 teaspoon cornstarch
For the frying batter
- 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
- 1/2 cup cornstarch
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
- 2 egg whites
- 2 tablespoons canola oil
- 1/3 cup (5 tablespoons) warm water
For the sweet and sour sauce
- 1/2 cup rice vinegar
- 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons brown sugar
- 1/4 cup ketchup
- 1/4 cup pineapple juice
- 1 tablespoon cornstarch, dissolved in 1 tablespoon water
- 1/2 teaspoon soy sauce
For the marinade
- Whisk the soy sauce, rice vinegar, and cornstarch together in a medium sized bowl. Add the cut up chicken and let it marinate for 30-60 minutes
- (If you want the peppers and pineapple – heat a couple of tablespoons vegetable oil in a heavy dutch oven over medium-high heat. Sauté the bell peppers and pineapple until tender, about 6 to 8 minutes. Remove the vegetables from the pan and set aside, and wipe the dutch oven clean with a paper towel)
- Fill the dutch oven with 2 to 3 inches of peanut oil. Heat the oil to 375°
For the frying batter
- Combine the flour, cornstarch, salt, and baking soda in a large bowl. Combine the egg whites, canola oil, and water and whisk until the uniform, and then combine with flour, and mix until mixture is thick and sticky (almost glue-like). Stir the marinated chicken into the fry batter until every piece is completely coated.
- Working in batches, fry the chicken until crisp and golden brown, about 2 – 3 minutes per batch. The coated chicken pieces will want to clump together in the oil, so I like to put in each piece one by one. I(f you’re using a thermometer, which you and I both know you’re not going to do, the oil will lower when you put the colder chicken in there, and that’s ok, as long as it’s between 350-375 you’re golden and delicious.)
- Using a spider or a slotted spoon, remove the cooked chicken to drain on a sheet pan lined with paper towels.
For the sweet and sour sauce
- combine the rice vinegar, brown sugar, ketchup, pineapple juice, cornstarch slurry, and soy sauce in a small saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the sauce begins to gently boil. It will darken in color and become thick. Immediately reduce heat to simmer and keep warm.
- If you want that second fry, then add all of the fried chicken back into the hot oil for about 30 seconds – 1 minute.
- In a large bowl, toss the hot chicken with the warm sweet and sour sauce and reserved vegetables. Serve immediately with cooked rice.