Should I even start off by saying: “I know it’s been a while, yada yada yada…” I feel like every time I actually get around to posting something, it’s always “a while.” So I’m just gonna skip that formality, and know that you love me anyway, even though I’m not cramming your inboxes on a daily basis.
Anyway, I’ve been really busy with real life that I haven’t had much time to sit down and yammer away, however that doesn’t mean I haven’t been busy in the kitchen. So i figured, I’ll just pop by for a bit, and say hi, and kind of update you with what’s going on around El Casa del Fogel for this thanksgiving.
The tale of Thanksgiving 2011 started with me deciding kind of last minute to throw together a meal with some friends, and found me going to Trader Joe’s for the turkey, and luckily grabbed literally the last one. The fowl weighed in at a healthy 15.5 lbs, and was happy with it’s lot in it’s after-life to be coming home with me.
If you remember from last year, I really like the method I saw on seriouseats for cooking the turkey in parts, and if you’re not sure why, you can read all about it by clicking these shiny letters. Yesterday, I put on my most serious butcher face, and went to town on the boyd, and separated legs, and wings from the carcass, removed the skin, and cut away each breast, leaving me with a good ole pile o’ bones.
Now some people might see trash, but I see stock. To clarify, stock is basically “flavored water.” You can have chicken, turkey, beef, veal, vegetable, or sock stock, whatever flavor you’re going for. And in it’s most simple form, it’s literally just water plus “(insert name of stock here)“, that’s it, everything else is added for flavor, but isn’t essential to make it a stock. It would taste pretty bad if there wasn’t salt and pepper, and while we’re at it, let’s add a classical pairing of onion, carrot, and celery (also known as a mirepoix), but with out that it would still be a stock. The best part of the animal to make stock with are the bones, because of all of the connective tissue on it, which gives us gelatin, which lends body to stocks, plus any additional meat you want in there. Also, while it’s totally fine to take raw bones, cover with water and let it cook, roasting the bones before hand, will deepen the flavor.
So I took the scraps of turkey, and roasted them at 450 for about 30 minutes. I then covered with water, following Michael Ruhlman’s ratio of 3parts water to 2 parts bones. Added salt, whole peppercorns, 2 bay leaves, and put it in the oven on the lowest setting (it was about 190 on the oven thermometer) and left it there for about 8 hours.
I then strained it, and put it back in the pot with some onions and carrots, and let it cook on medium high for another 20 minutes. I then strained that, allowed it to cool, and put it in the fridge. By the way, as disgusting as this is, I collected all of the pan drippings and stored it in the fridge. Oh and I also made the cranberry relish (cranberries, water, brown sugar, ginger, freshly ground allspice and cloves, and let it simmer away until thickened).
Before and after pictures of the turkey fat…Kind of gross, but in all honesty, it’s actually healthier than butter/margarine, so there.
Tuesday night, I took my bread, cut off the crusts, and cubed it. Placed it in a 400 degree oven for around 10 minutes to toast them, to use for stuffing, and for the dessert…more on that in a bit.
Today, I decided to make the butternut squash soup, the gravy, stuffing, and prep the turkey for tomorrow. Gravy in it’s simplest form is a roux, which is fat + flour, with stock. The stock I already had, and for the fat, I used the now congealed turkey fat from yesterday. I weighed out about 20 ounces of fat, and melted it, and added 30 ounces of flour (all weighed), and once the roux was nice and nutty, added the turkey stock, and simmered down until it was thick.
To make the stuffing, I sautéed onions, celery, and mushrooms in –you guessed it- more turkey shmaltz, added it to the bread, mixed in three eggs, parsley, and added enough stock that it was just saturated, and was nice and mushy. I baked it in the oven for about 15 minutes (I only wanted to cook it half way through), and took it out.
I also used the stock to make the butternut squash soup. I sauteed onions and garlic, with a little cumin seed and red pepper flakes, added the cubed butternut squash, 4 cups water, and 2 cups turkey stock, let it simmer down now, and blended it up with one of those immersion blenders; yeah a “zhuzher.”
Then to prep the breast of the turkey, I took the skin laid it out, and placed one turkey breast on it, then spread some stuffing on it, and then placed the other breast on top of it. Wrapped it up in the skin, and tied it all up.
It’s going to be phenomenal.
For the dessert, I plan on making Pecan, bourbon, and butterscotch bread pudding (from this month’s Bon Appetit), but probably with out the poppy seeds, because I’m not 1000 years old, along with some ice cream, and guess what? it’s also going to be phenomenal, I can tell already.
Well that’s it, hope you enjoy your thanksgiving, and even though I’ve been a little lazy with writing up these here posts, I hope you still have that warm and fuzzy place for me in your life. And if you really need some more Kosher Gastronome in your life, you can come over to the cool side, and look me up on twitter (@koshrgastronome), or even on facebook (http://www.facebook.com/TheKosherGastronome), I sometimes say funny stuff. It’s true.
20 thoughts on “Thanksgiving 2011”
Looks delicious. Nice job on the stock.
gracias my compadre
What are your thanksgiving plans?
Looking good. How about pinwheeling that turkey with some stuffing?
And why the harsh criticism of Mohn?
I put stuffing in there, and figured it would be best roasted whole w the skin basting it the whole time, as opposed to cutting it and grilling it like i did with the pinwheels… So how are your turkeyday preps coming along?
Looks and sounds amazing. Photos of all finished items, please. Have an extra piece of turkey for us Israelis who are not celebrating any holiday today.
I’ll try to take pictures, but can’t promise anything. While we’re talking about turkey, can you explain to me why the animal in hebrew is called: Hod, yet the country Turkey is called : Turkey, and not only that, but there’s *another* country called Hod !? How does this make any sense???
Because the Hebrew language makes no sense. [I took my ulpan test today, not feeling very positive towards Ivrit today :)]
Truthfully, it’s probably because they don’t associate the country with the animal. Neither do English speakers. I’m not sure what connection of the animal Hodu is to the country Hod, though.
Well if i remember correctly there is a connection between the country and the animal in the english languagee…and i have no problem not calling the country hod, but once were calling any country hod it might as well be turkey!
Oo0o0oo0ooo0oO0OOOO0oo0o0 I like how you made your stock! I haven’t tried it any other way than on the stovetop… I have Ruhlman’s Ratio book but haven’t read it yet (bad home cook!). The stock sounds lovely though and I bet it really added great flavor to your gravy!
Yeah I took out Ratio from the library, and read through it, and now I’m considering buying it just to have as a reference book, it’s a great book.
there better be some leftovers for us, even though you know how i feel abt leftovers.
Ha, well I can’t help it if it’s so good that everyone eats it all
Very, very impressive. I like how you treated the turkey and made your own stock and then used the stock for the stuffing and for the soup. I’ve seen the idea of cutting up the turkey, but boning and stuffing the breast is really taking it to another level.
I see that the bread pudding got rave reviews on Epicurious, but most reviewers presumably weren’t making it pareve. How was it? And how did you make it pareve? Rich’s Whip and Margarine? And what bread did you use?
Btw, I agree the poppy seeds in this dish seem kind of eccentric.
Thanks! The bread pudding was absolutely amazing…For the bread, I had leftover challah, and some random loaf of bread I had laying around, that I cubed and dried out in the oven (it was the same “batch” of dried up bread I used for the stuffing)…I used Earth Balance margarine, and Rich’s non-dairy creamer. The butterscotch pudding was good, but could have easily been omitted and replaced with some quality maple syrup, but that wasn’t such a big hassle anyway. I highly recommend it How was your Thanksgiving?
My Thanksgiving was low-key but nice, thanks. I made string beans with mushrooms, sherry and shallots, which was very good (and even better reheated for some reason), plus stuffing (also with challah), cranberry sauce, wild rice salad. I didn’t make such an incredible over the top turkey like you did, though. Wow . . . I have to try that bread pudding. That’s a good tip about using maple syrup instead of the butterscotch pudding.
Nice, glad to hear. Let me know how the bread pudding comes out Good Shabbos
I’ve always been curious about making vegetable stock (I’m a vegetarian), but am concerned about bugs getting into it. When I check onions (which we do in Israel), I typically lose some of it along the way, and those parts may not be fully checked. Same thing with lettuce and fresh herbs. Do you know anything about this?
I don’t understand, what do you mean you lose some it along the way?
I cut away some of the layers, or the ends, etc. And that’s the stuff that would be used in the stock.